Friends and vagabonders, Welcome to my newly redesigned website! It’s been a long time since I sent everyone an update — June, in fact, when Salon closed down its travel department just as I was boarding a freighter for India. Thanks to everyone who sent messages of support for Vagabonding to me or to the…
My Beirut hostage crisis
Taken under the wing of a Lebanese detergent tycoon, Rolf learns that there’s a fine line between hospitality and kidnapping.
Intrigue under the big screen
At a 1-dinar cinema in Amman, Jordan, the real story has little to do with the movie itself.
Dancing at the blood festival
Armed only with curiosity and a stained pair of pants, Rolf tries to make sense of the Islamic Feast of the Sacrifice in Aqaba, Jordan.
The baksheesh diaries
In Egypt, Rolf discovers that even the simplest experiences sometimes carry a price tag.
Backpackers’ Ball at the Sultan Hotel
With Flaubert’s 1850 letters as a guide, Rolf explores the enduring allure of opera, orgasm, belly-dancing and other Cairo clichés.
Skepticism and salvation in Cyprus
An unorthodox tour of the second and final tomb of Lazarus puts a strange twist into Rolf’s Larnaca layover.
Live from the trans-global Beach Nation
Leo’s new movie may be fiction, but its portrayal of a crowded travel world is based in fact. Rolf reports — from the unlikeliest of places — on just what is happening.
Turkish Knockout
Rolf retraces the thin threads that led to his being drugged and robbed in the heart of Istanbul.
A Greek romance
At Corfu’s Pink Palace, the ouzo flows, the crockery flies and the libidos run wild.
Fear and loathing in Latvia
Between the fistfights and the Finnish girls, it’s hard to get any writing done.
