After a guesthouse reservation fell through in Colombo I decided to give Sri Lanka’s sweltering capital a miss and head five hours inland to the storied hill-station city of Kandy. Coming off Sumatra I hadn’t properly fleshed out my travel plans for Sri Lanka, but sometimes it’s nice to improvise, and learn things as you…
How being travel-influential differs from being an travel “influencer”
This photo was taken last summer, during my keynote speech at Kazakhstan’s “Go Viral” festival, which is a kind of Central Asian equivalent of TED Talks. I also gave some smaller talks, including a “Travel Storytelling” session to a room full of young Kazakhs. The crowd was smart and engaged, and they had tons of…
One could spend years in Indonesia without needing to revisit a single place
The month I spent in Sumatra proved to be as spectacular a kickoff to any year I’ve experienced during my time on planet earth – but it was merely the first stop on a dynamic Air Treks itinerary that took me to a number of countries in Asia ( with Sri Lanka, as we shall…
Travel and health in the age of COVID-19: A Deviate podcast roundup
The sudden rise of the COVID-19 pandemic last month (which, in real time, didn’t feel sudden, even as data changed on a daily basis) left us all scrambling to understand what was happening, why it was happening, and what we should do about it. One way I sought to make sense of the disease during…
Celebrating (the glorious imperfection of) travel-selfie photos
I need to confess, as I come to the end of the Sumatra leg of these Dispatches, that the visual narrative of these posts is – perhaps inevitably – shaped by what I was able to photograph as a solo traveler on the island. A few weeks ago I illustrated a mini-essay about the joys…
People of Sumatra #19 & 20 (travelers’ edition): Surfers and birders
One curious aspect of my stay at Sumatra’s Rimba Ecolodge was the fact that, during my tenure there, I was the only guest who was not there to observe wildlife. We all ate meals together in the dining lodge, and while I enjoyed the company of my French and Dutch and German fellow-travelers, they would…
On the joy of open-water swimming (and taking selfies) in the Indian Ocean
One physical activity I rediscovered during my time in Sumatra was open-water swimming. I alluded to this in my previous post about Lake Maninjau – but whereas my swim to the bat-infested slopes of Tarandam Island was a one-off undertaking, I swam over mile each day during my stay at Rimba Ecolodge. Specifically, I made…
People of Sumatra #17 & 18: Nadege and Reno, impresarios of ecotourism
Nadege and Reno founded Rimba Eco-Lodge almost one decade ago as a way to integrate tourism with habitat preservation on the Indian Ocean coast of West Sumatra. Tourism, they tell me, is more sustainable than logging or mining when it comes to bringing money into the area – and the very presence of tourists protects…
Playing games with my day (and life) at my Sumatra beach office
I spent my final week on Sumatra at Rimba, a remote ecolodge on a roadless stretch of coast one hour by boat from Padang. There, I rented a rattan-and-bamboo room with beach access and a view of the Indian ocean for $18 a night, including three meals a day at the dining lodge, and full…
Siberut farewell meal: How the Mentawai thank their meat before they eat it
I think I become smitten with wherever I am in the world if I have enough time to linger and get to know it a little. This was certainly the case with the Mentawai settlements of Siberut Island, an isolated and beautiful (and, at times, uncomfortable) place that harbors some of my favorite travel memories…
Last Words, by Sylvia Plath
I do not want a plain box, I want a sarcophagus With tigery stripes, and a face on it Round as the moon, to stare up. I want to be looking at them when they come Picking among the dumb minerals, the roots. I see them already — the pale, star-distance faces. Now they are…