“Staged authenticity” is a term coined by anthropologists to describe how, within the tourist economy, indigenous people perform a version of their culture that caters to the expectations of tradition-obsessed outsiders.
My visit to northern Kenya this summer reminded me how complex and savvy displays of indigenous traditions can be — often mixing ancient cultural lifeways with market-driven modern flourishes.
Our driver and guide John Kabuga took us to Nangida, where traditionally dressed Samburu villagers sang and danced for us, demonstrated traditional herding practices, and proffered up souvenir bracelets and animal figurines. Stephen, the chief of Nangida, grabbed our Canon GX7 and snapped digital photos of Kiki and me as we walked through the village, holding forth in fluent English with the self-deprecating comic-timing of a well-practiced vaudevillian.
I have no doubt that the Samburu of Nangida do live most of their days in traditional ways, but during tourist high-season I suspect their energies are less focused on their traditional pastoral economy than in showcasing a simplified version of that pastoral lifestyle to outsiders.
Interestingly, along the A2 road north of Archer’s Post, there was no shortage of traditionally dressed Kenyan tribespeople living and working in the stark arid landscape — yet their traditions were also offset by pragmatic modern flourishes. John, an ethnic Kikuyu who lives a modern life in Nairobi, was as intrigued with his country’s premodern tribal traditions as we were. He often pulled his Landcruiser over to chat with and take photos of Samburu or Rendille “warriors” — i.e. young tribesmen who have been circumcised, but not yet married.
On several occasions the young Samburu and Rendille warriors we encountered were traveling with companions — often a brother or cousin — in modern-looking sportswear. This, we learned, was a familial strategy that allows the warrior to maintain a pastoral lifestyle, while the t-shirt-clad brother/cousin attends school with the intention of one day finding modern, cash-economy employment (perhaps alongside post-traditional Kikuyu or Luo or Kalenjin Kenyans).
Note: “Dispatches” are short vignettes, profiles, and mini-essays written and posted from the road, often in tandem with my Instagram account. I don’t host a “comments” section, but I’m happy to hear your thoughts via my Contact page.
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